The Tartan Fox

Looking for chef Adam Handling’s Cornish pub? You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d taken the wrong turning as you drive past the self-catering cottages and landscaped grounds of Carvynick Holiday Park. Situated just off the A3058, this refurbished stone-built inn spans two floors, the open-plan Scandi-style layout upstairs contrasting with a labyrinth of rooms below. Overall, it sets the scene for some serious cooking, delivered by a team of relaxed, attentive and knowledgeable staff.

Flavours are bold and harmonious, celebrating the very best sustainable ingredients from Cornwall and Handling’s beloved Scotland. Dishes range from pub classics such as a haggis Scotch egg with homemade brown sauce to elegant restaurant-style plates of, say, roast venison loin with celeriac, foraged mushrooms and brambles. Luxurious touches are peppered throughout the menu, cleverly interwoven with fermented and preserved provisions.

A diverse line-up of snacks might bring crispy oysters or moreish black-pudding bonbons. After that, a terrine of pasture-raised chicken is complemented by gently poached leeks, brittle chicken skin and a tangy miso sauce, while roasted artichoke soup, decorated with a vibrant ‘waste’ herb oil, delivers a hug in a bowl. Mains are flavoursome and comforting – perhaps a glistening, hot-smoked short rib (bones removed) with gherkins and beef-fat onion or a deliciously intense venison ragù with pappardelle and aged Cheddar.

Playful, inviting desserts feature the likes of spiced plum Bakewell tart with clotted cream – although for unbridled indulgence, nothing trumps the deep-fried Mars Bar with salted caramel and a delightfully smooth toffee ice cream, crowned with tiny cubes of fudge and frozen honeycomb. To drink, Cornish Orchard ciders and Truro-brewed Skinner's ales fly the flag for Kernow, while the comprehensive wine list offers an impressive choice from around the globe.