The Rat Inn

Sitting atop a hill with spectacular views of the Tyne Valley, this revamped 18th-century drovers’ inn proves its worth as a local watering hole, with an old-school bar, up to six ales from North Country microbreweries on tap (plus one craft lager) and lots of quirky items dotted around. The cooking has real character too, and the kitchen is passionate about provenance – check out the board detailing the local farms and herds that supply its meat. You can sample the results by ordering from the regular ‘seasonal menu’, which puts the emphasis firmly on steaks – sold by weight and served with the pub’s own ‘steak sauce’ (a must-have, by all accounts). Even more alluring is the list of daily specials, which offer ‘homely, rich pub food with a twist’ – from baby lemon sole with cucumber, grapes and fennel butter to slow-roast, honey-glazed pork belly with turnips and grilled peaches. Skilfully fashioned desserts could range from pear Bakewell tart to lemon meringue panna cotta. The personally selected wine list includes a dozen selections by the glass.