The Pearl

‘A tiny restaurant with a big heart,’ the Pearl exudes an air of old-fashioned gentility with its cobalt-blue frontage and cosy, snug-like interior (a high bar, lace curtains and closely spaced tables). Chef Matt Bennett and his two sous-chefs previously worked at Mana in Ancoats, and they are right on the money with a stylish but unpretentious menu showcasing ethical, regional sourcing with lots of herby seasonal accents.

Starters might range from Cumbrae oysters mignonette or nasturtium tacos with Dewlay cheese mousse to a standout plate of sticky pulled Lyme Park venison on toasted brioche with black garlic and apple gel, while mains might bring superb, richly flavoured saddle of lamb with mint sausage, charred savoy cabbage, tenderstem broccoli and ‘British chimichurri’. Elsewhere, the chef's sure touch slipped with an overly enthusiastic dish of spicy roast Cornish monkfish with rösti, minted peas, beer-pickled onions and curry sauce – a homage to the local chip-shop tradition.

If you have a fondness for retro desserts, the kitchen can satisfy any nostalgic cravings. Keep your eyes peeled for the Arctic roll, peaches and cream with Prestwich honey or Yorkshire strawberry tart with shortcrust pastry. There was also a welcome revival of the hot pistachio soufflé with potent amaretto ice cream and super-rich chocolate brownie on a recent menu. Thursday night is steak night, and there are terrific Sunday roasts too.

A short but well-curated list of decent wines plus a separate roster of fine vintages suits the food to a T. Overall, the Pearl has a well-established local fan base, best summed up by one reporter: ‘Great front of house hospitality. Amazing food, fabulous drink offering, lovely ambience that feels like you’re in someone’s living room.’