The Jackdaw
Conwy
'I would make the goodness-knows-how-long trip again without hesitation’ – praise indeed for Welsh-born Nick Rudge’s debut restaurant perched above Conwy High Street (keep your eyes peeled for the iron-gated, unsigned entrance). His keenly priced, hyper-local menus are refreshingly unshowy, while service makes eating here special without a hint of overbearing stuffiness – in fact the Jackdaw is something of a ‘poster-restaurant’ for modern destination dining. The decor is simple and understated, with fluffy sheepskins covering delicate wooden chairs and church-style mullioned windows adding a vintage touch. Nick’s seven-year stint The Fat Duck is evident throughout, especially in his silky, flavour-packed fluid gels – from the ‘funky sour seasoning’ of a beer and vinegar riff that augmented an uncommonly plump Rhug Estate wood pigeon (served with sage and onion purée, potent salt-baked beetroot and crunchy hazelnuts) to a ‘mesmerising’ cherry version that lit up a reimagined 'Snowdon pudding' packed with raisins, lemon and more cherries. Llyn-landed scallops are barbecued and buried beneath a tangle of crisp chicory, semi-hydrated grapes and pickled walnut purée, while chicken liver parfait with rhubarb, red wine gastrique and treacle bread proves every inch the equal of the much-vaunted ‘meat fruit’ served at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London. Also don't miss the kefir-risen 'bread of heaven' – a malty, cakey soda-like wheaten effort made to be slathered with golden home-cultured butter. In short, Rudge’s exemplary yet humble cooking is a tonic for the senses. The drinks list has a strong Welsh bias, and while the compact wine selection is global by necessity, its highlights are the bottles from Conwy’s own Gwinllan Estate Vineyard – available in limited quantities, but a testament to artisan Welsh viticulture.
Dining Information:
Family friendly, Credit card required
