The Hoddington Arms

A family-run pub well versed in the arts of hospitality is exactly what you would hope to find in a village like Upton Grey, and in the Hoddington Arms, locals have undoubtedly lucked out. A varied mix of indoor spaces framed by wooden rafters and exposed brickwork, together with tables in the garden, make for a properly bucolic air – and Chris Barnes’ kitchen does the rest.

A certain quirkiness embraces slate plates and Kilner jars, with little metal buckets for the chips, but the heart of the operation lies in an appealing range of classic and modern-classic dishes. Smoked duck breast with pickled mooli and five-spice plum chutney or, perhaps, portobello mushroom arancini with truffled garlic mayonnaise are promising ways to start, before sea bass and citrus-braised fennel in tomato and red pepper sauce makes an appearance.

There are readers for whom the Sunday roasts and the short-rib burgers with Cheddar, mustard mayo and onion rings are perfection personified, although these are run close by the sticky toffee pudding, jazzed up with medjool dates and served with clotted-cream ice cream. For something lighter in summer, look to vanilla panna cotta with strawberries poached in English sparkling wine. British cheeses are well-kept, and the ‘Hodd’ (as it's affectionately known) offers quality beers from Hampshire brewers, as well as a good spread of wines.