The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant
Crief, Perthshire & Kinross
With billionaire backers meeting luxury brands in an idyllic location, Glenturret Lalique is a marriage of gastronomy, hospitality, whisky and crystal – all grounded in place and history. Head chef Mark Donald is Glaswegian and while sporting an impressive international pedigree and a vibrant palette of global influences, he never forgets that this restaurant is not simply located at the distillery but woven into its very DNA. Essence of Glenturret runs like a golden thread through the kitchen and menu. With less skill, that could feel contrived or brigadoonish but in his well-paced and perfectly balanced tasting menu there is reverence, insight, artistry and even humour. After the tweedy comfort of the lounge and crystalline glitz of the bar, the relatively unadorned seven-table dining room initially feels somewhat muted – despite magnificent Champs-Elysées Lalique chandeliers overhead that each cost more than many a luxury car. Fortunately, the genteel choreography of staff and the steady emergence of vibrant food animates the space. From the opening ‘snack’ of a raspberry-mirrored pearl of liver parfait nestled in a frangible cocoa basket with miniature floral composition to an intricately crafted ‘sweetie box’ of Sauternes jellies and whisky truffles reflecting the interests of the owners, this is 'bucket list' dining. In culinary terms, it’s a technical masterclass. The vernacularly titled ‘tattie scone’ reimagines peasant food for princes – fluffy steamed potato buns filled with a potato mayonnaise and topped with medallions of marbled wagyu beef, truffle and caviar. ‘Lobster toddy’ offers three interpretations (a peaty smoked consommé, a fried sandwich and a pared-back tail served with vibrant herbed coulis), while 'bisque-it' turns the heavily reduced shell broth into a witty, crispy snack that can’t fail to raise a smile. To conclude, a Maracaibo chocolate millefeuille with green coffee and its own miniature of Glenturret Triple Wood syrup is flawless. At lunchtime, a carefully crafted bar menu allows a peek into the kitchen’s capacities. Eating out at this level is inevitably costly, but the warmth of restaurant manager Emilio Munoz and his team ensure it doesn’t feel austere or corporate; staff are well-versed in reading the room. Alsatian sommelier Julien Beltzung has worked in the Lalique group’s two other French fine-dining restaurants and knows the intricacies of the estate wines. The Gallic-accented list includes imaginative selections across the budget spectrum as well as matched flights. Other drinks options extend to cocktails with a strong house twist and an encyclopaedic whisky range that also contains six curated flights ranging from 'introductory' to 'interstellar'.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required, Deposit required
Glenturret Distillery, The Hosh, Crief, Perthshire & Kinross PH7 4HA
01764 656565
