The Black Swan

The story of the Black Swan, the Banks family and Tommy is very compelling and we were keen to check out whether it was largely marketing hype or something groundbreaking and inspirational. We concluded it was the latter The service was excellent, starting with the warmth of the greeting and extending to the rooms in a nearby converted house and on to the dining experience. There is great attention to detail – for example in the carefully curated bedrooms. Nothing, it seems, is left to chance. The staff work as a team to maintain high standards of customer service, taking time and trouble to explain every aspect of the tasing menu. For sure there is an agreed script but servers are ready and keen to engage in discussion- for example about the local foraging of wild garlic and the dark arts of the rhubarb triangle. It is here that the knowledge and enthusiasm for food shines through and you can sense that the staff are bound together by the shared purpose of delighting the customer. Sometimes the chef in charge of the course comes out of the kitchen in whites to explain the dish at the table Between us we enjoyed the vegetarian and the meat menu, comparing courses where they differed, for example beef versus onion broth – I would walk a mile to taste either! In terms of standout dishes it was the Lions Main we liked the best – astonishing flavour from a mushroom. We had never tasted Douglas fir and the chicory for chocolate made us remember the Camp Coffee prevalent in the 1950s and used to adorn many a coffee and walnut sponge The breakfast was perhaps a bit more traditional but still there were twists to make it unusual and special. Coffee and bread highly rated. In spite of the strict organisation verging on the performative there is nothing superior or overly fussy in the running of the place, customers are welcomed and made to feel valued and staff look as if they are having fun Of course it's expensive – some might say eye watering with the top drinks package £250 a head ! but that said there is clearly investment in staff training and development, in the nurturing of local talent, in supporting local food producers and in exploring new techniques to bring local ingredients from the field to the table. The business also supports local hospitality and has rescued at least two other village public houses with restaurants. None of this comes cheap. Those of us that are fortunate enough to be able to pay Black Swan prices should do so without grudge, secure in the knowledge that we helping to promote wholesome local food instead of industrialised farming and food outlets putting profit before quality. We should encourage Tommy to innovate and explore new techniques and approaches and applaud the success of everything achieved in Oldstead and beyond.