The Black Bear Inn

‘Overall, to find this level of cooking in such an unassuming location was a real treat,’ is praise indeed for Josh and Hannah Byrne’s warmly welcoming rural dining pub, which is surrounded by rivers, mountains and fields. Perched proudly by the side of the road – and seemingly a beacon in an area with not much else around – the Black Bear Inn has quickly built a reputation with diners who keep coming back because the food is precisely what they want to eat. From what must be one of the smallest kitchens in Wales comes a menu heavily weighted towards delicious snacks (we got a little overexcited and ordered too many), but the trio of starters and mains is well worth investigating – perhaps Dexter beef tartare with fried bread and anchovy mayo or haddock and mussels in herb butter sauce. The largely European wine list offers an astonishing range for a country pub, full of excitement, with interesting grape varieties all over the show, interspersed with some orange stuff and chilled reds. Check the blackboard for excellent by-the-glass selections.