The Black Bear Inn

It's always reassuring to come across a rural pub in an area barely big enough to count as a village – in this case, a seductive corner of Monmouthshire in the rough vicinity of Usk. The whitewashed former farm building is all old beams and open stonework inside, with a pleasant little terrace at the back. 

The weekly changing, all-day menu is built around three each of starters and mains, but opens with an extensive range of snacks, which are definitely worth investigating. Whipped cod's roe with fried potato skins is altogether delicious, as is broad-bean panisse with beetroot ketchup and pumpkin seeds – although our top pick was a smoked beef croquette with anchovy aïoli. A starter of octopus with heirloom tomatoes, garlic shoots and olive oil brought the sun-drenched Med to south Wales, while a main course whopper of a turbot, sauced with white wine and butter, and matched with mussels and kale, was easily enough for two. Meat could be Herefordshire kid goat with braised lettuce, exquisitely layered confit potato, and roasted garlic mayo. 

Desserts bring the house down with the likes of almond and brown-butter financier on stewed rhubarb, topped with heaven-scented saffron ice cream or oat and rye flummery with strawberries and fennel-seed shortbread. The largely European wine list is full of excitement, with interesting grape varieties all over the show, interspersed with some orange stuff and chilled reds. Check the blackboard for excellent by-the-glass selections.