Ripley Anchor

It may date back to the 16th century, but the vintage timber-fronted Anchor is now a clever blend of old and new – pastel tones with exposed brickwork, lead-light windows, beams and smart wood furniture – while a trump-card courtyard is overseen by staff who are genuinely helpful, well-informed and attentive to a fault.

The kitchen treads a neat line between cleverly executed fine dining and approachable modern-day pub food, with British and European influences intertwined, and ‘careful consideration for every flavour in every part of a dish’. On the plate, that might mean crispy venison with Cumberland sauce and radish or an on-trend pairing of cured trout, beetroot, kiwi and grapefruit gel with a hit of pickled jalapeño. To follow, keen sourcing shows in dishes such as skrei cod with shellfish and pearl-barley risotto or guinea fowl breast paired with sweetcorn purée, bacon and a crispy onion loaf.

Sides of hash browns with harissa mayo are on the money, likewise desserts such as a modern twist on Arctic roll or vanilla cheesecake with gingernut crumb and marinated pineapple. Set lunch deals and five-course tasting menus broaden the Anchor’s all-round appeal. Real ales from breweries in the Home Counties vie with craftily mixed cocktails, while eight house selections by the glass or carafe head up the well-spread international wine list.