Teal by Sally Abé

Nestled in leafy London Fields, Sally Abé’s latest venture is in a part of Hackney where house prices crossed the £1m mark a long time ago. It makes sense to open here (Ornella, a few doors down had the same idea). Abé has taken over what was previously Sesta (and before that Pidgin) converting the spartan space into something more cosseting – a cosy neighbourhood bistro on a model village scale. Pretty lamps, patterned fabrics, trailing plants and treasured cookbooks give it the feel of a beloved country house. The chef and her team can be spied through the hatch, turning out a carte of gently modernised English dishes such as chilled pea and mint soup, devilled crab tartlet, corn-fed chicken breast with spring vegetables, and raspberry marshmallow teacake. Pastry and sauces are particularly accomplished. If they can find a little more cellar space to flesh out the wine list (only two under £50), Teal could really spread its wings.