Teal by Sally Abé

Nestled in leafy London Fields, Sally Abé’s latest venture occupies a part of Hackney where house prices crossed the £1m mark a long time ago. Abé has taken over what was previously Sesta (and before that Pidgin), converting the spartan space into something more cosseting – a cosy neighbourhood bistro on a model village scale. Pretty lamps, patterned fabrics, trailing plants and treasured cookbooks give it the feel of a beloved country house. The chef and her team can be spied through the hatch, turning out a carte of gently modernised English dishes such as chilled pea and mint soup, devilled crab tartlet, corn-fed chicken breast with spring vegetables, and a take on sticky toffee pudding involving medlars. Pastry and sauces are particularly accomplished. From September onwards it’s ‘officially roast season again,’ says Sally Abé – so look forward to plates of 35-day aged rump of Hereford beef or porchetta stuffed with Cumberland sausagemeat and served with apple sauce. If they could flesh out the wine list with a few more affordable bottles, Teal could really spread its wings.