Tamila Clapham

No space is wasted in this cavernous restaurant. Unadorned tables are close enough to join in neighbours’ conversations, bentwood chairs are pulled in to let others go past, even carafes of wine and water are filled from unobtrusive taps at the bar.  But at this sibling of Tamila in King's Cross, it's a necessity – every spot was occupied when we arrived for an early dinner, and people were waiting for our table when we left.

The lure is high-quality South Indian cooking, with dishes listed on a mercifully short menu of small plates, curries and sides, all designed for sharing. We started with crunchy, chewy, robust onion bhaji with a sweet mint chutney for dipping, and a choice of dosa – the cheese and chilli version was a real treat (as was the rich and deeply satisfying curried dhal). Elsewhere, the Thanjavur chicken curry, laced with turmeric, coriander and coconut, had just the right amount of heat.

Save a little room for gulab jamun, all hot and sticky, sitting on a pool of moreishly sweet, rose-flavoured milk. Service is casual but very efficient. Although some tables are kept back for walk-ins, do book if you can – and as soon as you can – or be prepared to eat in the middle of the afternoon.