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Sollip

London, Bermondsey - Global - Restaurant - ££££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Sollip (Korean for pine needle) is the creation of husband-and-wife team Woongchul Park and Bomee Ki who met studying at Le Cordon Bleu, although those expecting traditional Korean or traditional French cuisine will find neither here. The restaurant is entirely Park and Ki’s own, a peaceful, poetic exploration of their journey in an unobtrusive space – anonymous on the outside, simple, serene, slightly spartan perhaps on the inside. Park (The Ledbury, Koffmann’s) is head chef, Ki (The Arts Club) pastry chef. Together, they produce a nine-dish tasting menu that changes seasonally but for a few fixtures such as daikon tarte tatin (with roasted potato and burnt hay emulsion), and a gamtae sandwich (a diminutive Duckett’s Caerphilly brioche toastie in a diaphanous seaweed net) – both excellent. The menu opens with the commanding flavours of a fiery beef tartare tartlet and a gougère of doenjang (fermented soya bean paste) as snacks, moving on ...

Sollip (Korean for pine needle) is the creation of husband-and-wife team Woongchul Park and Bomee Ki who met studying at Le Cordon Bleu, although those expecting traditional Korean or traditional French cuisine will find neither here. The restaurant is entirely Park and Ki’s own, a peaceful, poetic exploration of their journey in an unobtrusive space – anonymous on the outside, simple, serene, slightly spartan perhaps on the inside. Park (The Ledbury, Koffmann’s) is head chef, Ki (The Arts Club) pastry chef. Together, they produce a nine-dish tasting menu that changes seasonally but for a few fixtures such as daikon tarte tatin (with roasted potato and burnt hay emulsion), and a gamtae sandwich (a diminutive Duckett’s Caerphilly brioche toastie in a diaphanous seaweed net) – both excellent. The menu opens with the commanding flavours of a fiery beef tartare tartlet and a gougère of doenjang (fermented soya bean paste) as snacks, moving on to more subtle, layered dishes that demand the diner’s full attention. First, a study in carrots (juice, purée, grilled) with beurre blanc, then pearlescent poached cod with dried pollock broth and a miniature three-day fermented potato flatbread with tarama. Every element of the final savoury course vies for attention: Padrón pepper purée, a wagyu meatball, Orkney scallop and a side of exceptional black rice. The tea service is stunning, with six different infusions (persimmon, mugwort, buckwheat etc), all beautifully served; the accompanying madeleine and coffee/sesame cookies are also first-rate. The wine list, supplied by Keeling Andrew & Co (of Noble Rot) opens at £35 for a Quinta do Ermizio, 'Chin Chin' Vinho Verde before hopping all too quickly past £50 and up into three figures. The young, casual clientele with big-ticket bottles at their tables seem unfazed.

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VENUE DETAILS

Unit 1, 8 Melior Street
Bermondsey
SE1 3QPGB

020 7378 1742

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OTHER INFORMATION

No background music, Wheelchair access, Credit card required

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