Shrub

On the Eastgate Rows in the centre of Chester, Shrub specialises in plant-based cooking with Mediterranean and Asian influences. The room is expansive and relaxing, with lots of sustainable wood, rattan lampshades and fake foliage lending a gentle touch of urban pastoral. Nothing on the menu is referenced as a 'meat substitute' – in fact, confirmed meat-eaters genuinely enjoy eating here. Start with some meze and small-plate selections to see how you go. Courgettes barbecued over coals acquire a deliciously lingering smokiness, while artichoke 'wings' come with a dressing raunched up with Aleppo pepper and garlic mayo. Pasta fans should lap up the pea farfalle with courgettes, pine nuts, pea and chervil sauce, while sides include moreish Szechuan fries with spring onion and chilli. Grilled peach with thyme makes a refreshing finisher. Shrub also does its own plant-based take on the Sunday roast: oyster mushroom Wellington is the main event, accompanied by a vegan ‘yorkie’, charred cabbage, assorted veg, seasonal purée and gravy. The drinks list features fragrant cocktails, no-waste infusions and some characterful wines by the glass.