Saint Jacques

The reincarnation of a similarly named restaurant along St James’s Street, Saint Jacques occupies the space that used to be L’Oranger and more recently, Boulestin. Eating here can feel like a case of déjà vu. It's a beautiful, light-filled room with considerately spaced, white-clothed tables (perfect for enjoying a natter with good wines and food), while the outdoor terrace is one of most attractive in town. The food is unapologetically Gallic, with brasserie staples such as escargots or twice-baked goat’s cheese soufflé appearing on the menu, alongside classics including steak tartare (skilfully prepared on a traditional guéridon trolley). The kitchen also knows how to make familiar ideas interesting: the richness of pan-fried foie gras, for example, is offset by pickled rhubarb and rhubarb jam, while hand-dived scallops are paired with pea purée and ventrèche bacon. Elsewhere, tender rabbit leg is stuffed with a truffle-spiked mousse and partnered by duchesse potatoes and morels, with a rich veal jus helping to amalgamate all the relevant flavours. Desserts are a roll call of classic French greatest hits – how do you choose between tarte tatin, crème brûlée and blood orange soufflé? We plumped for the added theatre – and the boozy, citrussy aromas – of crêpes Suzette flambéed at the table. Food like this is as comforting and reassuring as a warm hug, while staff help to maintain a sense of entente cordiale – although prices reflect the prestige address. With help from next-door wine merchant Berry Bros & Rudd, chef-owner Richard Weiss and his experienced sommelier have developed a wine list with a heavy French accent and some marvellous bottles from Burgundy and Bordeaux, plus a flight of Guigal Rhônes – although the dozen by-the-glass selections offer far less excitement.