Nick’s at Port of Menteith

Nick Nairn, an avuncular celebrity chef and TV personality (‘veering towards national treasure status,' thought one reporter), is to be found at this rural complex comprising a home and lifestyle store (set up by his wife Julia), a restaurant, kitchen garden and Cook School near the picturesque Lake of Monteith. In a rural setting rather than on the waterfront, the restaurant spills out onto decking peppered with wicker bucket chairs overlooking a leafy field – the best tables in summer. Open all day, we just managed to squeeze into the overflow car park for a late lunch (booking is advised), but the welcome was genuine and while the menu is more crowd-pleasing than inventive (and prices can be punchy), it did deliver on the food front. A home-cured turbot and trout taco, for example, served with jalapeño sour cream, charred avocado, pico de gallo and lime was refreshingly delicious, and we would happily go back for a pizza on a sunny summer’s afternoon, or some shellfish from the BBQ.