Mirin

What began as a hip little ramen spot on a side street off Leith Walk is now one of the most innovative Asian eateries in Edinburgh. Sharif Gergis and Elizabeth Elliott, (the couple behind Gulp Ramen) garnered a cult following, but the level of broth-watching (simmered for over 60 hours) eventually took its toll. The Mirin rebrand has seen the focus shift to experimental small plates – the owners recommend two or three per person. But that’s not easy when the first three dumpling dishes all sound so enticing, especially an Asian take on Cullen skink: fat, chewy parcels of smoky fish in a puddle of chilli-infused coconut cream. Another inspired mash-up involves hand-ripped noodles, thick, al dente and coated in a spicy wild boar and Stornaway black pudding ragù (an Asian bolognese, if you like), while dessert might bring a miso-infused tiramisu. There’s a good list of wines by the glass (including skin-contact orange varietals). Mirin's interior is low-key, with bare bulbs, wooden benches and stools at the counter. It's hard to get a table, so you must book ahead – also bear in mind your sitting time, as they run a tight turnover.