L’Enclume
Cartmel, Cumbria
No. 1
While other restaurants follow trends, L’Enclume follows its own nose, not pigeon-holing comfortably into any recognisable style. The decor leads the way: unassuming from the outside, the bones of the former forge clearly visible inside, tempered by an understated contemporary look of natural stone, leather and wood. Crockery is chunky bowls and hefty plates, while the bespoke iron-forged cutlery shows that every little detail has been thought through. And, as the menu placed in an envelope on your table suggests, the food is deeply rooted in the locality. Everything is built around uncompromisingly seasonal produce harvested from Our Farm just over a mile away – book a tour to get a brilliant insight into the philosophy behind the cooking. Nature may be the theme but it is the kitchen’s ability to extract pure essence from these base ingredients that excites – note a dish of Duncan cabbage cooked in chicken butter, where pickled walnuts, girolles and a Westcombe Cheddar cheese sauce layer contrasting flavours to intense effect. More than 20 years have passed since Rogan opened L’Enclume but it's clear that the place isn't resting on its laurels – the well-paced and perfectly balanced tasting menu remains a serious statement of intent. Opening bites, served in quick succession, range from a delicate beetroot tartlet filled with diced lobster, half-dried tomato and apple marigold, to the bold umami hit of Berkswell pudding caramelised in birch sap, tempered with a little acidity from stout vinegar and generously capped with finely grated, aged Berkswell cheese. More treats follow: a silky seaweed custard in partnership with beef broth and bone marrow, plus oysters and caviar adding a briny saltiness, ahead of a lightly brined Scottish langoustine, thinly sliced and served in a rich beurre blanc topped with smoked pike-perch roe. Here are dishes of such intensity, balance and contrast, culminating in the sheer pleasure of dry-aged Middle White suckling pig, a mix of belly, shoulder and loin, rolled with Florence fennel, wrapped in chard, with a sauce of mead and onion seeds that’s a perfect balance of sweetness, acidity and richness. Before things move to a sweet finale, grated, frozen Tunworth cheese arrives, layered with a rhubarb compote, malt crumb and lemon thyme gel, resetting the palate before a delicate confection of blackberry, muscovado and sheep’s yoghurt coated with fragrant cream and herbs. Then the final reward – 'anvil', the long-standing signature dessert of caramel mousse teamed with miso, apple and spruce. Eating out at this level is inevitably costly, but L’Enclume presents an experience unlike others: service flows (youthful and easy-going), chefs pop out of the kitchen to introduce dishes, their manner relaxed and comfortable. This is a restaurant free of the ostentation that bedevils many of its contemporaries. It’s hard to choose wine when you don’t know what you are going to eat (some diners prefer not to view the menu until after the meal), so if your budget allows, go for the wine flights – there’s even a well thought out, very good value non-alcoholic option. If not, seek expert by-the-glass guidance – the approachable sommelier proffers well-targeted suggestions.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, No background music, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required
Cavendish Street, Cartmel, Cumbria LA11 6QA
015395 36362
