Kol
Marylebone, London
No. 19
One minute we’re learning about the different varieties of heritage corn in Mexico; the next we’re implored to ‘have fun’, get our hands dirty, almost like we’re not in a potentially several-hundred-pounds-a-head hot new restaurant in Marylebone. Kol, established in the throes of the pandemic in 2020, is the creation of Santiago Lastra, the young Mexican chef chosen by René Redzepi to helm his Noma pop-up in Tulum back in 2017. Lastra has learned from his mentor to brook no compromise; everything about this debut is polished, pristine and perfect – from the covetable island kitchen in the heart of the restaurant with its hand-chiselled oak counters to the heavenly soap in the five-star-hotel-worthy loos and the luxurious leather pouches filled with from-scratch corn tortillas. The cuisine is like no other in exploring 'the tension between British produce – rhubarb, cucumber, sea buckthorn – and traditional Mexican cooking techniques’ (as one inspector put it). A six-course menu is served at lunch; otherwise, it’s nine courses with the option of flights of wine or mezcal (the last word in acquired tastes). Vegetarian and vegan alternatives are available too. Kol’s approach is engaging from the off. A cold, chilli-hot shot of fermented tomato broth invigorates the palate, followed by a tart-like taco of courgette and blue cheese with an unapologetic chilli kick. Warm staff – some super-earnest, some quite matey – guide diners through the ingredients and techniques, for example the 25 components in the dark chocolate mole that accompanies three-week-fermented carrot ‘cecina’ (more typically, cured meat), or the sea buckthorn in the DIY langoustine taco (in the absence of limes flown in from far away, you’re encouraged to squeeze the juices from the head of the crustacean over the dish). The menu builds to the main event, which might be grilled octopus and bone marrow or wonderful wobbly pork cheek with bonus crackling, gooseberry and pear sauce, plus earthy black-bean purée. Dessert might be a rustic fresh sweetcorn sponge with yoghurt ice cream and the ubiquitous fig-leaf oil. The beverage programme is exceptional. Choose rare teas, Oaxacan espresso, hibiscus agua fresca or an impeccable margarita; otherwise, dive into agave spirits or wild wines from eastern Europe. It might be nice to see one or two Mexican bottles, but if you’re into Slavic skin contact, step this way.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required
9 Seymour Street, Marylebone W1H 7BA
020 3829 6888
