Henrock

Once up the sweeping driveway of Linthwaite House and through the 14 acres of gardens onto the hotel’s terrace, you'll be treated to one of the finest views of Windermere, with the namesake ‘hen rock’ poking out of the lake below. Henrock (the restaurant) is at the viewless rear of the hotel, which focuses attention firmly on the plate, though – as in the rest of the impressive property – there is also art to admire from the owners’ private collection. Henrock is a Simon Rogan restaurant with Mark McCabe, formerly of the Ethicurean near Bristol, at the helm. Many of the ingredients have travelled no further than the extensive Our Farm in Cartmel, 13 miles away, making vegetarian dishes as diverting as the meat and fish options. The wine list casts its net wide, from Sussex to Slovenia, and an excellent by-the-glass selection helps to make amends for the rather lofty bottle prices. If there’s a drawback, there’s no getting away from the feeling that one is eating in a hotel dining room. But if you can’t get into L’Enclume or a Lakeland visit doesn’t allow time or transportation for Cartmel, Henrock provides a taste of Rogan destined to inspire further exploration.