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‘Our go-to for special occasions… or any excuse,’ admitted one fan of Gianluca Tozzi and Jack Booth’s bright, airy seafood eatery – a welcome alternative to St Leonards' many fish and chip shops. It's all very assured, with a genuine sense of pride underlying everything that happens here, and personal service imbued with ‘a sense of humour’.

Starting with superb Italian and English ingredients, Puglian-born Tozzi sends out elegant, creative and clean-flavoured dishes, perhaps marinated anchovies with horseradish and dill or Sussex wild bass crudo with nectarines, lemon and mint dressing. Main plates are equally strong, with some inventive touches – think monkfish wrapped in bacon with dill-flecked Jersey Royals, greens and bisque, turbot with caviar beurre blanc or something involving pasta – perhaps fresh scialatielli with clams and asparagus.

Don't miss the Whitstable oysters – an essential extra in this context, especially when the midweek set lunch is such a steal. Vegetarians might eat zucchini fritti, then a plate of fresh orecchiette with aubergine ragù and creamed caciocavallo cheese. For afters, consider the regional cheeseboard with pickled grapes and red onion marmalade or choose from a couple of classic desserts – perhaps affogato or tiramisu. The short wine list favours England, Italy and France, with fair prices and some interesting choices across the range.