Four Boys

Across the waters from bustling Padstow, this plum spot on the Camel Estuary surveys the domains of Rick Stein and Paul Ainsworth and throws its own hat in the ring as a seriously good place for dinner. Named for the four sons of caterer Fee Turner and run by two of them, it’s a family affair but one with touches of influence from London greats such as Trullo (the crab taglioni) and St John (the stubby-stemmed flutes) that bring a slice of cosmopolitan life to this holidaymakers' landscape. When doors open for the season, a weekend evening sees the handsome but minimalist dining room buzzing before 7pm with some sandy-footed blow-ins from the beach, others dressed up for an evening out, babes in arms, children, dogs and all. The Italianate menu is set up for sharing, though you wouldn’t be penalised for going it alone with a big plate of fresh pasta. The seafood is as local and seasonal as you’d expect, and delivered with enough aplomb to keep Nathan Outlaw’s team down the road in Port Isaac coming back regularly. Start your meal with a well-made Martini or a glass of Camel Valley sparkling wine in the adjoining bar or take a table on the terrace for a prime waterside view when the weather's fair.