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Folium

West Midlands, Birmingham - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

A personal masterclass in ingredients-led cooking

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Competition is fierce in B3. Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter has a thriving restaurant scene but Ben Tesh and Lucy Hanlon’s well-established Folium more than holds its own. The interior style – pared back, comfortable – suggests a perfectly confident but low-key neighbourhood venue, yet it’s the setting for some ambitious culinary action. Working solo in the open-to-view kitchen, Tesh’s vision is an entirely personal one, a masterclass in ingredients-led cooking delivered without any sense of ego or overcomplexity. Dishes on the tasting menu (long and short versions) are composed to bring out the best in prime (often luxurious) ingredients, and Tesh has the confidence to leave well alone when the components are in striking harmony. A whisper-thin ‘burnt onion’ wafer curled around a dot of intense chicken liver parfait makes a sublime mouthful, ditto a pillowy croquette of Mayan Gold potato topped with a light, creamy smoked cod roe and dotted w...

Competition is fierce in B3. Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter has a thriving restaurant scene but Ben Tesh and Lucy Hanlon’s well-established Folium more than holds its own. The interior style – pared back, comfortable – suggests a perfectly confident but low-key neighbourhood venue, yet it’s the setting for some ambitious culinary action. Working solo in the open-to-view kitchen, Tesh’s vision is an entirely personal one, a masterclass in ingredients-led cooking delivered without any sense of ego or overcomplexity.

Dishes on the tasting menu (long and short versions) are composed to bring out the best in prime (often luxurious) ingredients, and Tesh has the confidence to leave well alone when the components are in striking harmony. A whisper-thin ‘burnt onion’ wafer curled around a dot of intense chicken liver parfait makes a sublime mouthful, ditto a pillowy croquette of Mayan Gold potato topped with a light, creamy smoked cod roe and dotted with beads of pike roe. The teaming of exquisitely flavoured A5 wagyu sirloin with nothing more than grilled endive and a rich, glossy sauce is masterly, while the sweetness of turbot plays beautifully against a foamy ponzu sauce of delicious depth – best appreciated by mopping up with the accompanying deep-fried bread roll.

A delicate run of ices makes the perfect, light finish, from whipped marshmallow and yuzu juice, strewn with crispy rice for texture to a rich, creamy toasted hay, caramel and rye confection. Lucy Hanlon runs front of house with great charm, while Folium's enticing offer is completed by an efficient, wide-ranging wine list.

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VENUE DETAILS

8 Caroline Street
Birmingham
West Midlands
B3 1TWGB

0121 638 0100

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OTHER INFORMATION

Wheelchair access, Credit card required

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