Fallachan Kitchen

Craig Grozier’s cooking is deft, confident and pared back to the essence of ingredients and flavour, but there are many good chefs who do that. What's different is the small scale, the communality, the sense of discovery in a quasi-industrial venue in a hidden location – a re-purposed railway arch on the southernmost fringes of the West End.

Here, all the senses are engaged: the smell of open fire cooking, the percussive rumble of overhead trains, the clatter of knives and pans. But with just twelve seats at a communal table in the kitchen, not everyone will like it – we certainly wouldn't head here for an intimate date night. That said, the staff are adept at managing and enabling a positive and celebratory atmosphere and facilitating that sense of being at some exclusive or secret event.

Unquestionably Scottish while integrating wider geographic and stylistic influences, the set lunch and evening tasting menus have a strong seasonal identity and are a homage to those who grow, forage, harvest or preserve. Ambitious cocktails with a local twist and imaginative wine pairings are offered by a passionate sommelier. And it works, although with quite limited opening hours, it’s hard to get a reservation.