Erst
Greater Manchester, Manchester - Modern European - Restaurant - ££
Inventive seasonal small plates and intriguing natural wines
* The restaurant is temporarily closing for a major refit on 21 December 2024. Due to re-open mid-January 2025. Watch this space.* 'I would eat my lunch and dinner here every day,' admitted one convert who has been turned on by Erst's many charms. Located in the red-brick Ancoats ‘quartier’, the anonymous exterior of this ground-floor, corner restaurant/natural wine bar does not immediately catch the eye. Inside, it’s a small space and although the open-flame kitchen, bar and tables are close they’re not too close for comfort. The style is restrained post-industrial with Scandi-muted colouring and striking curved Bauhaus lamps. Erst is a leading proponent of the school of small plates (the menu is short, seasonal and succinct), while the cooking is confidently restrained and ‘beautifully executed’. The fabulously puffy grilled flatbread gets a big thumbs-up (‘the best I’ve ever tasted,’ raved one recipient), perhaps topped with be...
* The restaurant is temporarily closing for a major refit on 21 December 2024. Due to re-open mid-January 2025. Watch this space.*
'I would eat my lunch and dinner here every day,' admitted one convert who has been turned on by Erst's many charms. Located in the red-brick Ancoats ‘quartier’, the anonymous exterior of this ground-floor, corner restaurant/natural wine bar does not immediately catch the eye. Inside, it’s a small space and although the open-flame kitchen, bar and tables are close they’re not too close for comfort. The style is restrained post-industrial with Scandi-muted colouring and striking curved Bauhaus lamps.
Erst is a leading proponent of the school of small plates (the menu is short, seasonal and succinct), while the cooking is confidently restrained and ‘beautifully executed’. The fabulously puffy grilled flatbread gets a big thumbs-up (‘the best I’ve ever tasted,’ raved one recipient), perhaps topped with beef fat and urfa chilli or red pepper and oregano. Cold specialities bring on fired-up Carlingford oysters or beetroot with ajo blanco and yet more chilli (green, in this case).
Hot dishes have become more numerous and varied of late, so expect anything from skate wing with trompettes and sherry to skewered ox heart spicily slathered with ras el hanout butter. Cheese is always interesting, perhaps Pevensey Blue or a specimen from the Isle of Wight served with quince and a lavosh cracker, while dessert might mean panna cotta with PX prunes or olive oil cake with ricotta ice cream.
‘Approachable’, low-key and helpful service matches the unpretentious setting, while the short wine list is full of natural libations you want to ‘sip and savour’. We still do not know why the restaurant is called Erst. And it would be awfully uncool to ask.
VENUE DETAILS
9 Murray Street, Ancoats
Manchester
Greater Manchester
M4 6HS
0161 826 3008
OTHER INFORMATION
Wheelchair access, Credit card required, No reservations