Edinburgh Castle
Manchester, Greater Manchester
It's a handsome example of a classic Victorian city boozer, established in Ancoats (Britain’s 'first industrial suburb') in 1811, but quite how the historic building survived urban blight is a happy mystery. The relatively small, low-lit downstairs bar is all dark colours, mirrors, marble and mahogany, plus a few quirky objets such as a trio of stuffed flying ducks on the wall. The upstairs dining room provides more space and comfort: tan leather-upholstered chairs and well-spaced tables, parquet floor, sober and uncluttered design with a modern edge. The cooking fits happily into the space, offering something between workaday pub food and fine dining, with all the provenance and seasonal boxes ticked plus a balance of teasingly unusual and reliably familiar ideas. There’s an earthy streak of North Country cheerfulness that avoids pomposity or pretentiousness – a welcome approach enhanced by the vintage mismatched china plates that lend a homely touch to proceedings. Opening nibbles of 'gimme-more' crisp baked potato skins and smoked cod’s roe heralded more good things to come. A Chioggia beetroot starter with pickled walnuts and curds was perfectly delicious, even if the concept suffered from over-familiarity – mind you, it’s popular for good reason. The kitchen's take on brawn was a clever deconstruction of crunchy coating and juicy pulled pork alongside contrasting orchard fruit compôte and chutney. Pearl barley, tinted vivid emerald with Cinderwood cavolo nero purée and topped with egg yolk and Yorkshire pecorino, was both nutty and subtle. For afters, 'bay custard' turned out to be an impeccable crema catalana, while rosemary Russet apple sorbet was, well, just that – although, paradoxically, too apple-sweet to be really refreshing. The much-praised roasts served for Sunday lunch have a cult following, and staff are helpful when it comes to choosing from the decent wine selection.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required
17 Blossom Street, Ancoats, Manchester, Greater Manchester M4 5AN
0161 414 0004
