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Dishoom Kensington

London, Kensington - Indian - Restaurant - ££

Rekindling the spirit of old Bombay's Irani cafés

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Housed in part of what was the Barkers department store of blessed memory, the Kensington outpost of the Dishoom group is an elegant, Art Deco room with booth seating that could almost be a railway station buffet of yesteryear, complete with a giant clock. On Thursday and Friday evenings, a resident jazz band, the Marine Liners, contributes to the nostalgic feel, while the menus perform agile variations on Indian all-day eating. There are Bombay breakfasts for the rise-and-shiners (try a Parsi omelette or a bacon naan roll), plus small plates for the grazers – lamb samosas, chicken and mango salad, chilli cheese toast, hot potato vada buns – and a repertoire of main dishes given enjoyably florid menu descriptions. Jackfruit biryani, mutton pepper fry, Goan monkfish curry and tandoori lamb chops finished with lime and masala are among the attractions. Vegan menus are of course butter-free, and full of invention, right through to basmati rice pudding with coconut milk, card...

Housed in part of what was the Barkers department store of blessed memory, the Kensington outpost of the Dishoom group is an elegant, Art Deco room with booth seating that could almost be a railway station buffet of yesteryear, complete with a giant clock. On Thursday and Friday evenings, a resident jazz band, the Marine Liners, contributes to the nostalgic feel, while the menus perform agile variations on Indian all-day eating.

There are Bombay breakfasts for the rise-and-shiners (try a Parsi omelette or a bacon naan roll), plus small plates for the grazers – lamb samosas, chicken and mango salad, chilli cheese toast, hot potato vada buns – and a repertoire of main dishes given enjoyably florid menu descriptions. Jackfruit biryani, mutton pepper fry, Goan monkfish curry and tandoori lamb chops finished with lime and masala are among the attractions. Vegan menus are of course butter-free, and full of invention, right through to basmati rice pudding with coconut milk, cardamom and cashews.

Alternatively, simply drop by for that old-time Bombay classic – a buttery bun with a cup of spicy chai. First-class cocktails and everyday wines (from £29 a bottle) sit alongside lassis and coolers to wet the whistle.

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VENUE DETAILS

4 Derry Street
Kensington
W8 5SEGB

020 7420 9325

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Wheelchair access

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