Core by Clare Smyth
Notting Hill, London
*Following a minor rerfurb, Core now has a swanky new bar called Whiskey & Seaweed, named after its signature cocktail.*
It appears we are currently witnessing a mini-stampede of chefs to this smart corner of town. The British wing of Clare Smyth’s empire (Oncore opened at the Crown Sydney hotel, Australia at the end of 2021) rose to the top before the pandemic hit and has stayed there – it's one of the most popular restaurants in London, judging by the difficulty we always have trying to bag a table. Fittingly discreet from the outside, the warm-toned dining room is a real show-stopper, seducing most who cross its threshold. Sip a cocktail, glance at the menu, recline into the wine list, and all seems right with the world – an impression reinforced when a row of canapés arrives. There's a wonderful sense of theatre here, with presentation that is positively ‘Charlie and the Chocolate Factory-esque’: mossy logs hosting a bite of foie gras tartlet elegantly draped with Madeira jelly or the lifting of a smoke-filled glass cloche to reveal smoked chicken wings. Otherwise, the carte is conservative in the sense that well-achieved specialities survive from year to year: the crispy veal sweetbread with honey, mustard and kohlrabi; a girolle and toasted buckwheat tart; roast cod with Morcambe Bay shrimps, Swiss chard and brown butter. This is labour-intensive, minutely detailed cooking. The textural pleasure of the famed ‘potato and roe’ – waxy potato, bursting buds of fresh roe, baby crisps and a rich beurre blanc – is one to savour, but not every dish registers as a ringing triumph. A perfectly pink loin of Herdwick lamb, with savoury herbs, sheep’s curd and a roundel of slow-cooked lamb, highlighted what can happen when individually fine elements are not sufficiently balanced against each other – ‘the lasting flavour was as though I'd just eaten a nice roast dinner but it was otherwise completely unmemorable and unexciting’. Our pick of desserts was the 'Core-teaser', an impressive Malteser-style creation that had us marvelling at its presentation. The wine list is a comprehensive tour of world-class domaines and you can easily sink four figures on a bottle, although you can also find entry-level options for about £45 – and to drink out of Zalto glasses is a sensual experience in itself, made all the more enticing by the thoroughbred recommendations of the sommelier. The whole show is bolstered by Michelin-grade service and a really convivial atmosphere.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required
92 Kensington Park Road, Notting Hill W11 2PN
020 3937 5086
