Chez Bruce
Wandsworth, London
Readers confirm that Bruce Poole’s hugely likeable Wandsworth stalwart is doing ‘very well’ post-pandemic. There may be some new faces front of house and the interiors have been freshened up, but the neighbourly yet sophisticated vibe and the sheer precision of the cooking remain unchanged with head chef Matthew Christmas still at the helm. Locals and visitors alike are charmed by the kitchen’s highly distinctive take on Anglo-European cuisine, its assured handling of top-notch ingredients and its feel for satisfying, earthy flavours. A well-tried and suitably ‘creamy’ rendition of deep-fried calf's brains with sauce gribiche and morteau sausage shows respect for the old bourgeois ways, likewise a gutsy serving of breaded hake with shellfish cassoulet, coco beans and aïoli. To start, imam bayildi gets in on the act, while a salad of beef and grilled broccolini seasoned with soy, ginger, sesame and chilli takes its cue from the Far East; to finish, the hot chocolate pudding with praline parfait is a regular standout (judging by feedback) or you might fancy the tongue-twisting ‘lemon drizzle pistachio polenta cake’ with yoghurt sorbet and spiced plum compote. Also, be sure to save room for the array of Anglo-French cheeses (one diner was served ‘ten different varieties’ on a single plate). To complement the food, head sommelier/buyer Victor Barré has assembled a treasure trove of rare and classy wines, with quality, pedigree and diversity writ large on every page of the all-embracing list; house selections start at £23.50 for a 375ml carafe of Muros Antigos, Vinho Verde.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, No background music, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required
2 Bellevue Road, Wandsworth SW17 7EG
020 8672 0114
