Brutto
London, Farringdon - Italian - Restaurant - ££
Florence comes to Farringdon at this pulsating jam-packed eatery
Russell Norman’s sudden death in November 2023 shocked the restaurant world, but his masterfully staged final project, Brutto, carries on regardless – thanks to his wife Jules and son Ollie. Inside, checked tablecloths, Chianti flasks and typewritten menus do their best to transport you to Florence, although the 1990s soundtrack pumping out at high volume may shatter your illusions. Reservations are released online two weeks ahead; act fast if you want a table at prime time. Otherwise, walk in, sit at the bar, order a £5 Negroni and nibble on some pinzimonio (crudités) or Sicilian anchovies with toast and butter curls. It’s all ‘intrinsically simple, but reliant on the quality of the ingredients,' noted one fan. The vitello tonnato is 'exemplary', pasta might bring rabbit pappardelle or pork and mortadella tortelloni in bone broth, while panzanella (a cucina povera classic) is made moreish with red onion, basil and a vinegary dressing. We als...
Russell Norman’s sudden death in November 2023 shocked the restaurant world, but his masterfully staged final project, Brutto, carries on regardless – thanks to his wife Jules and son Ollie. Inside, checked tablecloths, Chianti flasks and typewritten menus do their best to transport you to Florence, although the 1990s soundtrack pumping out at high volume may shatter your illusions.
Reservations are released online two weeks ahead; act fast if you want a table at prime time. Otherwise, walk in, sit at the bar, order a £5 Negroni and nibble on some pinzimonio (crudités) or Sicilian anchovies with toast and butter curls. It’s all ‘intrinsically simple, but reliant on the quality of the ingredients,' noted one fan. The vitello tonnato is 'exemplary', pasta might bring rabbit pappardelle or pork and mortadella tortelloni in bone broth, while panzanella (a cucina povera classic) is made moreish with red onion, basil and a vinegary dressing. We also loved the fried dough balls with prosciutto and Stracchino cheese, while a bollito with tongue and fall-apart beef brisket was equally captivating and lifted by perky salsa verde. Dry-aged Florentine T-bones (well-seasoned and rested) are available in limited numbers, so best bag one on arrival.
Pudding can be as simple as plum and almond cake or ‘brutti ma buoni’ (the ‘ugly but good’ biscuits from which the restaurant takes its name). Like the food and the ambience, the friendly young staff earn top marks. The house wine is more than palatable, and there’s an attractive list of Italian regional bottles. 'Bravo Brutto!'
VENUE DETAILS
35-37 Greenhill Rents
Farringdon
EC1M 6BN
020 4537 0928
OTHER INFORMATION
Counter seating, Dog friendly