Brusco

Sitting pretty on a tree-lined avenue in the smart Montpelier neighbourhood, this little restaurant and bar literally draws in passers-by with its good looks. Painted cream with striped café curtains and pavement tables, it wouldn’t feel out of place on a Brooklyn backstreet, while inside the bare plaster walls and simple decoration conjure a homely yet sophisticated mood. There’s only space for about 20, and if you’re feeling sociable, the best seats are at the dining counter, facing a bar lined with bottles of amaro and vermouth – Brusco’s specialist subject. Start with a refreshing vermouth soda or a cherry Negroni while perusing the short, Italian-leaning menu from ex-Moro chef Victoria Skinner. Meat from Trenchmore Farm yields a flavourful bavette with tonnato sauce or there might be rustic fennel sausages with lentils and punchy salsa verde, all wrought with a great deal of care and attention. Portions are generous and a one-dish meal feels particularly good value – it just depends on how far you delve into the all-Italian wine list. Friday nights are typically packed, so it's best to book ahead at weekends.