Bohemia
Jersey, St Helier - Modern European - Restaurant - ££££
Jersey hot spot noted for its highly refined, imaginative cooking
Launched in 2003, Bohemia is the brightest culinary star in all the Channel Islands – though, from the outside, it cuts a discreet figure, huddled beneath a luxury hotel not so far from the sea in St Helier. Stepping inside, there’s a whiff of a vintage ocean liner to its dusky wood-panelled walls, leather chairs and Art Deco flourishes, although no one seriously doubts the radiance of the cooking. Feedback suggests that head chef Callum Graham has ‘hit new heights’ and added ‘another element of refinement’ to his intricate and ceaselessly imaginative menus – an ongoing seasonal celebration of produce from Jersey’s fertile fields and the bountiful waters surrounding the island. Tasting menus come in vegetarian, pescatarian and omnivorous incarnations, although re-imaginings of dishes and meditations on textures are a recurring leitmotif across the board. This is evident in a pairing of Normandy sand carrot with Jersey mussels, coriander...
Launched in 2003, Bohemia is the brightest culinary star in all the Channel Islands – though, from the outside, it cuts a discreet figure, huddled beneath a luxury hotel not so far from the sea in St Helier. Stepping inside, there’s a whiff of a vintage ocean liner to its dusky wood-panelled walls, leather chairs and Art Deco flourishes, although no one seriously doubts the radiance of the cooking. Feedback suggests that head chef Callum Graham has ‘hit new heights’ and added ‘another element of refinement’ to his intricate and ceaselessly imaginative menus – an ongoing seasonal celebration of produce from Jersey’s fertile fields and the bountiful waters surrounding the island.
Tasting menus come in vegetarian, pescatarian and omnivorous incarnations, although re-imaginings of dishes and meditations on textures are a recurring leitmotif across the board. This is evident in a pairing of Normandy sand carrot with Jersey mussels, coriander and sea buckthorn or roast veal sweetbread on a silky butternut and Parmesan purée with cacao nibs, toasted pumpkin seeds and chicken jus. Local supplies also shine in a dish of line-caught sea bass with charred braised octopus, fennel, chicory and bouillabaisse sauce, although venison is sourced from the Cartmel Valley in Cumbria and served with beetroot, fig, nasturtium and venison jus, all invigorated with Szechuan spices. Artisan cheeses from Jean-Yves Bordier warrant special attention, while desserts might usher in a tarte tatin laced with local apple brandy and served with clotted-cream ice cream or a caramelised pear and mascarpone crémeux with roasted hazelnut and a dash of white balsamic vinegar.
The food is matched by service that is ‘warm, welcoming and professional’ to a fault. France dominates a heavyweight wine list, parts of which may have you reaching into the deepest fathoms of your pocket. One aficionado was also delighted to discover that Bohemia is the modern-day home of Lanique – an iconic and delectable rose-scented liqueur.
VENUE DETAILS
The Club Hotel & Spa, Green Street
St Helier
Jersey
JE2 4UH
01534 880588
OTHER INFORMATION
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly