Belzan

An abidingly popular neighbourhood spot in the Wavertree district of Liverpool, Belzan is the very image of a modern bistro, with its comfortable banquettes against whitewashed bare brick and high shelves crowded with empty bottles. ‘The atmosphere is great and the serving staff are a delight,’ confirms one regular. In the context, it would be churlish not to start by snacking on some devilled eggs or a potato and Cheddar croquette with aïoli, before cruising into the menu of soundly constructed seasonal dishes.

To start, you might plump for wild sea bass crudo or a plate of English tomatoes with smoked aubergine yoghurt and oregano – although one fan swears by the ‘show-stopping’ Guinness rarebit potato. Combinations are more enterprising than the standard bistro cookbook might furnish, so expect grilled hispi cabbage topped with romesco and crumbly Lancashire cheese, BBQ pork collar with Provençal sauce or a Barnsley chop jazzed up with Middle Eastern muhammara dip, leeks and broad beans. Desserts are as simple as can be, from chocolate mousse with hazelnuts to a peach Melba choux bun – although we’re partial to the North Country ‘cheese and cake’ combos. 

The prix-fixe of three courses and a glass of wine for £40 is worth a full-throated cheer, while Sunday lunches bring in the local crowds with their offer of Dickey’s roast chicken and swede mash or sirloin of beef with horseradish cream. The drinks menu features a slate of classic cocktails and the place also supports wine producers with food and wine-pairing nights.