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Bancone Golden Square

London, Soho - Italian - Restaurant - £

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Like the Covent Garden original, this Soho offshoot majors in counter dining, although there’s much more space throughout: chatty groups congregate around the olive tree planted in the centre of the room, couples prefer the discreet booths with green-leather banquettes; there’s also a semi-secret basement that doubles as a cocktail bar. Praise still rings out for the faultless hand-made-pasta – ‘absolutely on-point, with perfect textures and zingy, punchy sauces.’ The signature ‘silk handkerchiefs’ of fazzoletti with walnut butter and confit egg yolk continue to steal the show, although many dishes have been recommended: fusilli with spicy pork and ‘nduja; courgette, lemon and ricotta ravioli; pappardelle with a ragù of braised ox cheek laced with Barolo vinegar. Bold regional flavours also shine through in antipasti such as kale salad with soft egg, lemon and bottarga or burrata with salt-baked beeetroot, while desserts bring pral...

Like the Covent Garden original, this Soho offshoot majors in counter dining, although there’s much more space throughout: chatty groups congregate around the olive tree planted in the centre of the room, couples prefer the discreet booths with green-leather banquettes; there’s also a semi-secret basement that doubles as a cocktail bar. Praise still rings out for the faultless hand-made-pasta – ‘absolutely on-point, with perfect textures and zingy, punchy sauces.’ The signature ‘silk handkerchiefs’ of fazzoletti with walnut butter and confit egg yolk continue to steal the show, although many dishes have been recommended: fusilli with spicy pork and ‘nduja; courgette, lemon and ricotta ravioli; pappardelle with a ragù of braised ox cheek laced with Barolo vinegar. Bold regional flavours also shine through in antipasti such as kale salad with soft egg, lemon and bottarga or burrata with salt-baked beeetroot, while desserts bring praline cannoli with crystallised hazelnuts or a confection of cranberries, lemon confit, vanilla and meringue. ‘Truly lovely, smiling staff’ ensure that dishes arrive at just the right temperature. Prosecco and reasonably priced Italian wines (from £27) are supplemented by a more prestigious ‘cellar’ list.

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VENUE DETAILS

8-10 Lower James Street
Soho
W1F 9ELGB

020 3034 0820

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly

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