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1921 Angel Hill

Suffolk, Bury St Edmunds - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Impeccable, artfully presented seasonal cooking

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

The calm persona of chef-patron Zack Deakins pervades every corner of this unruffled and lovely place, filtering through to a bevy of warm and friendly staff as well as laying a restraining hand on the pricing – especially at lunch, which is ‘outstandingly good value’ at £29 for three courses (with choice). You realise it's a steal, because the dishes are as exquisitely and thoughtfully composed as those from the tasting menu or the evening carte. A flight of canapés sets the tone – endearing, appetite-pricking mouthfuls such as a mushroom croquette with quail’s egg or a tuna and anchovy cracker. After that, readers have enjoyed impeccable, artfully presented dishes ranging from lamb tartare with smoked yoghurt and sourdough croûtons to grilled grey mullet served with chorizo, clams and runner beans – aided by generous amounts of dill and caraway bread for mopping up any juices. Dinner raises the bar higher, celebrating the seaso...

The calm persona of chef-patron Zack Deakins pervades every corner of this unruffled and lovely place, filtering through to a bevy of warm and friendly staff as well as laying a restraining hand on the pricing – especially at lunch, which is ‘outstandingly good value’ at £29 for three courses (with choice). You realise it's a steal, because the dishes are as exquisitely and thoughtfully composed as those from the tasting menu or the evening carte.

A flight of canapés sets the tone – endearing, appetite-pricking mouthfuls such as a mushroom croquette with quail’s egg or a tuna and anchovy cracker. After that, readers have enjoyed impeccable, artfully presented dishes ranging from lamb tartare with smoked yoghurt and sourdough croûtons to grilled grey mullet served with chorizo, clams and runner beans – aided by generous amounts of dill and caraway bread for mopping up any juices. Dinner raises the bar higher, celebrating the seasons and ushering in the likes of Mersea crab accompanied by pickled mooli, apple and black sesame ahead of a richly autumnal collation of venison loin with blackened onion, roasted pear and a ragoût of the shoulder meat.

To finish, chocolate-loving fans have drooled over the crémeux with griottine cherry ice cream, although the kitchen also rings the changes with modern conceits such as a verdant dill parfait pointed up with green apple and salted goat’s milk. Wines roam familiar territories, making a detour to Japan’s Yamanashi province for Grace Wine’s ‘fresh, textured’ white made from the indigenous Koshu grape, before ascending to a 2015 Margaux (Château Cantenac-Brown).

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VENUE DETAILS

19-21 Angel Hill
Bury St Edmunds
Suffolk
IP33 1UZGB

01284 704870

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required

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