Fears that the Greek Street restaurant might have breathed its last when the shutters came down suddenly in February were happily unfounded. Issues around the lease appear to have been resolved, and a facelift – including a deep-green frontage and vivid orange awning where once there was black and gold – is complete. The grande dame of Soho is slowly but surely approaching her centenary (2027), but she appears ready to take on the next hundred years.
Sunday lunch (think goats’ cheese tartine with figs and honey, rib of aged beef, baba au rhum) is an appealing £39 for three courses with choices, while a prix fixe, offered for midweek lunch or early dinner, is a £19/£24 steal for two/three courses. L’Escargot’s familiar classics such as lobster bisque, chateaubriand for two, and crème brulée remain on the a la carte.
