From the architectural influence of the French Huguenots around Spitalfields to the enduring legacy of vintage fabric and leather goods produced in factories along the street, to the bagel shops with Ashkenazi Jewish roots and, of course, the Bangladeshi curry houses, this vibrant street, winding along Aldgate East, Whitechapel and Bethnal Green is as unique as they come – a canvas for stunning street art, vintage markets, festivals, and of course food.
For an authentic Bangladeshi food experience a good starting point is Whitechapel. From the tube exit take a left and walk a couple of minutes to Kolapata, my go-to spot for an evening snack. The menu includes street food favourites such as puchka – a delicate hollow shell filled with a spicy potato and chickpea mixture then topped with a spiced tamarind pouring sauce and grated hard-boiled eggs, delivering a one-biter that bursts with flavour. There’s also chotpoti, a spicy concoction of chickpeas and potatoes topped with salad, pastry and egg. Be sure to try both of those with some tea and a sweet for a pick-me-up Bangladeshi style. For more substantial options I suggest their haleem, an unctuous blend of beef and lentils topped with herbs, fried onions and lemon.
Back to Whitechapel tube exit and turn right to Feast & Mishti, a bustling Bangladeshi buffet restaurant offering a large selection of traditional fare. There are meat and fish curries, vegetable dishes, bhorta (a spicy mash of vegetables or fish mixed with fried chillies, garlic, onions, and mustard oil), as well as biryani and sweet options. If you have a healthy appetite and want to try a little bit of everything, this is your place.
Meander along Whitechapel High Street and you’ll arrive at Nanna Biriyani on the opposite side. Known for their kacchi biriyani, this unassuming eatery serves up a generous portion of slow cooked lamb biryani, Dhaka style. Mellow, with complex layers of spicing this is pure comfort food. Nestled within the rice are fried potatoes and a boiled egg. Perfect with aloo bokhara (sour plum) chutney. Also good is their bhuna khichuri, made with meat, rice and lentils. Follow with a milky tea and a chilled portion of firni – ground rice pudding.
A mere stone’s throw away is the entrance to Brick Lane. As you walk along the street Rajmahal Sweets will be on your left - a great spot for a quick Bangladeshi savoury or sweet snack on the go, or to pack and take away. Try the plump, pyramid shaped shingara – a Bangladeshi take on the samosa, filled with spicy potato and vegetables. Sweets to try are chomchom and kalojaam – milk-based, soft and syrupy.
As you walk along Brick Lane you’ll spot Amar Gaon, one of my personal favourites when I crave a good selection of homestyle food. This casual restaurant has a massive counter filled with a range of curries, vegetables, rice dishes and bhorta. Try the chicken roast, beef shatkora and hilsa with plain rice. They also do a good mango lassi.
A few steps away is Graam Bangla, a cosy eatery with a beautiful Bangladeshi aesthetic, offering a selection of Bangladeshi classics, served on traditional earthenware plates. They're known for their bhorta and classic dishes from the Sylhet region which include rui fish curry, with the aromatic citrus shatkora.
A short stroll down the road will bring you to Bethnal Green Road. Turn right for Charista, a pretty little modern Bangladeshi cafe that’s perfect for a coffee date or for when you’re a bit peckish. The menu is small but delicious, serving up classics, small plates and desserts, such as jhal muri (puffed rice with onions, chillies, cucumber tomatoes and peanuts), various chaat, shingara, biryani and milk cakes. Try the mango milk cake, papri chaat (a crunchy, sweet and savoury snack with potatoes and pops of pomegranate) and gurer chai (milk tea with date molasses).
