And so to Ragù, open since April in a bijou corner of Cargo 2 that seems both blessed and cursed. Previous occupant Tare Bistro was, during its short life, one of the most delicious and enjoyable dinner spots in Bristol. On first look Ragù is a strong contender to inherit that title, so let’s hope it can fend off whatever financial pressures caused the shock closure of its predecessor in March after only 17 months.
The second venture from the husband and wife team behind Bedminster’s much-admired COR, Ragù was originally supposed to be named Luca in honour of their young son, until a spoilsport London restaurant of the same name got their lawyers involved. Frankly, I think the London Luca may have shot themselves in the foot. Being confused with a restaurant that is already being lavished with praise in the local and national press – The Guardian’s Grace Dent’s favourite restaurant of 2025 so far, no less – might not have been such a bad thing.
But Ragù it is, so no one can get confused about who deserves credit for the menu’s delights. Décor-wise it bears a remarkable similarity to Tare Bistro, save the addition of some wall-mounted planters full of cheerful-looking greenery. Tables and counter top seats remain so closely packed that you can have a conversation with the people sat behind you simply by speaking over your shoulder. Chefs toil diligently behind the kitchen counter running along the back wall. Outside, a small number of high top and regular tables share the covered balcony space with diners from neighbouring restaurant Seven Lucky Gods.
'If, like us, the number of actually rather large ‘small plates’ confuses you into ordering too much, then listen out for the sound of a tiny violin as you eat beyond your hunger because it’s just too good to stop.'
Unlike Cor which skips about the Mediterranean, Ragù is an Italian restaurant, though you won’t find pizzas or even much pasta on the menu. It’s ostensibly a sharing plates diner though flexible enough to accommodate those who would rather just order a starter and a main-sized dish. If, like us, the number of actually rather large ‘small plates’ confuses you into ordering too much, then listen out for the sound of a tiny violin as you eat beyond your hunger because it’s just too good to stop.
A noticeable feature of sharing plates menus seems to be that the larger dishes that approximate main courses are often less exciting and lend themselves less well to sharing than their smaller companions. So it was at Ragù, where a plate of pressed disc of shredded shoulder of lamb in a ragu of pea, salsa verde and pecorino from the larger end of the menu, though generously proportioned and beautifully executed, delivered considerably less bang for the buck than a pair of rapture-inducing Roman artichoke fritti from the snack section.
Grilled cipollotti onions on a bed of creamy fresh goat’s cheese and brown butter with grape must from the lower reaches of the menu elicited sighs of contentment, especially when smeared over home-made focaccia. Also bringing the wow was dish of otherwise unremarkable spinach and ricotta gnudi brought to vivid life by a tomato brodo whose astonishing flavour was like spooning sunshine directly into your mouth.
The sharing concept may go out the window when you see the chocolate budino with glistening macerated cherries and amaretti crumb which, we can confirm, tastes as beautiful as it looks. Equally tempting are a selection of Italian cheese plates with accompaniments such as mustard fruits and home-made crackers. On our visit, a rhubarb and pistachio cannoli with rather thick, dry pastry did not deliver on its promise, but by then being able to leave something on the plate was a mercy.
The drinks menu offers a whole page of vermouths, as well as cocktails, local beers and ciders and a short but carefully chosen selection of European wines. We were particularly impressed by the soft drinks and alcohol-free aperitifs. Who could resist a drink called a Chuckleberry Spritz? Apparently it’s a cross between a gooseberry, redcurrant and jostaberry, and mixed with sparkling water it was a refreshing delight.
'If you see the words ‘tomato brodo’ on the menu, order the dish regardless of what it comes with (cut up squares of foam mattress? a child’s shoe?) – it’ll still be the most joy-inducing dining experience of your week.'
To sum up, Ragù is not flawless, but it has a damn good try. To get the best from it, order lightly and return often is our advice. And if you see the words ‘tomato brodo’ on the menu, order the dish regardless of what it comes with - cut up squares of foam mattress? a child’s shoe? – it’ll still be the most joy-inducing dining experience of your week.
WHERE Unit 25, Cargo 2, Museum St, Bristol BS1 6ZA
FOLLOW @ragu.restaurant.bristol
BOOK ragurestaurant.com
The Good Food Guide allows three to six months before anonymously inspecting a new restaurant. Look out for a full review coming soon.
