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Sabor

London, Mayfair - Spanish - Restaurant - ££

Flexible, fun and superb-value Spanish tapas

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

If Spanish tapas as a restaurant concept now comes in fifty shades of authenticity, Sabor offers something else again. Nieves Barragán and José Etura draw on the culinary traditions of all corners of Spain, from Castile and Galicia down to Andalucia, in an ingeniously designed – and dynamically popular – venue just off Regent Street. The outdoor queue that has already formed at midday on a Monday for the no-bookings ground-floor Counter, bears witness to the enthusiasm with which Londoners have embraced the idea. Your orders are marked in pen on the counter before you, and crossed off as they are delivered. Consider the tortilla: toasty exterior, the inside molten but firm, the disc-like shape perfection itself, with neat distribution of filling. On top is a dot of rich but mellow allioli. A flaky-pastried lamb empanada with a little salad is a delicate joy, as is the sweetbread in creamy caper gravy, topped with flawlessly timed fried kale that retains its c...

If Spanish tapas as a restaurant concept now comes in fifty shades of authenticity, Sabor offers something else again. Nieves Barragán and José Etura draw on the culinary traditions of all corners of Spain, from Castile and Galicia down to Andalucia, in an ingeniously designed – and dynamically popular – venue just off Regent Street. The outdoor queue that has already formed at midday on a Monday for the no-bookings ground-floor Counter, bears witness to the enthusiasm with which Londoners have embraced the idea.

Your orders are marked in pen on the counter before you, and crossed off as they are delivered. Consider the tortilla: toasty exterior, the inside molten but firm, the disc-like shape perfection itself, with neat distribution of filling. On top is a dot of rich but mellow allioli. A flaky-pastried lamb empanada with a little salad is a delicate joy, as is the sweetbread in creamy caper gravy, topped with flawlessly timed fried kale that retains its colour and texture. Elsewhere, grilled red peppers and hazelnuts make a sweet foil to a portion of blue goat's cheese.

The same strong flavours are also boldly applied to fish dishes such as seared tuna with ajo blanco, or the Spanish-Italian fusion of cuttlefish pappardelle with Manchego and pesto. There might be more goat's cheese for afters, blended in an ice cream and sauced with liquorice, but the chocolate bombas are pretty seductive too. Drink Estrella beer, sherry or a couple of the excellent Spanish wines (from £7.50 a glass).

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VENUE DETAILS

35-37 Heddon Street
Mayfair
W1B 4BRGB

020 3319 8130

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access

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