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Ox Club

West Yorkshire, Leeds - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Headrow House is a former textile mill, very much part of Yorkshire's industrial heritage, and is reborn as Ox Club, where a roof terrace and beer hall are among the covetable spots. There is also a dynamic restaurant space with lots of bare blond wood – including some backless high stools just in front of the kitchen counter that will test the less-than-perfectly supple. Head chef Will Campbell carries forward Ox Club's take on modern British brasserie food, driven by sound populist instinct and substantial portions. The aromas of fire-grilling and roasting that emanate from the kitchen are enticing indeed, and might presage the arrival of a darkly crusted breast and drumstick of guinea fowl, adorned with charred sweetcorn, smoked truffle and herb oil. Beef cuts are even sturdier, with a bone-marrow and peppercorn sauce to accompany aged sirloin, fired on the bone – or there might be whole turbot with sea beet in smoked butter. The preliminary courses are not necessarily i...

Headrow House is a former textile mill, very much part of Yorkshire's industrial heritage, and is reborn as Ox Club, where a roof terrace and beer hall are among the covetable spots. There is also a dynamic restaurant space with lots of bare blond wood – including some backless high stools just in front of the kitchen counter that will test the less-than-perfectly supple. Head chef Will Campbell carries forward Ox Club's take on modern British brasserie food, driven by sound populist instinct and substantial portions. The aromas of fire-grilling and roasting that emanate from the kitchen are enticing indeed, and might presage the arrival of a darkly crusted breast and drumstick of guinea fowl, adorned with charred sweetcorn, smoked truffle and herb oil. Beef cuts are even sturdier, with a bone-marrow and peppercorn sauce to accompany aged sirloin, fired on the bone – or there might be whole turbot with sea beet in smoked butter. The preliminary courses are not necessarily in the same category – our grilled sardines came in a sauce that didn't remotely resemble the advertised beurre blanc – and a lighter hand with oil dressings wouldn't go amiss. That said, the side of crispy potatoes with 'nduja mayo is worth a not inconsiderable round trip. Finish, perhaps, with aerated chocolate mousse and morello cherries with a twangy redcurrant sorbet. Good beers are one of the draws of the place; otherwise, the list of 20 off-piste wines is worth considering.

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VENUE DETAILS

Headrow House, The Headrow
Leeds
West Yorkshire
LS1 6PUGB

0113 485 1814

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OTHER INFORMATION

Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access

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