Search the Good Food Guide - Site Settings site

Location

Establishment Type

Cuisine

Price

Clear
  View all 6 photos
  /6
X

Orwells

Oxfordshire, Binfield Heath - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Stunningly artistic cooking in chic surroundings

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Exceptional

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

There is a soothing sense of isolation to this white-fronted former pub in an Oxfordshire village near Henley, but that has not stopped scores of readers from nominating it as a local favourite. The sense of good cheer that irradiates the place is a tribute to Liam and Ryan Simpson-Trotman's skills in the arts of hospitality, and its understated modern spaces provide a chic backdrop to some stunning cooking. Following a stint working front of house, Ryan is back in the kitchen, marshalling thoroughbred produce from the length and breadth of the British Isles, while making good use of pickings from Orwells' own garden and local hedgerows. The cooking demonstrates nerveless confidence in a range of techniques, from a starter of flame-grilled lobster teamed with girolles, apricots, verjus and sea fennel (aka rock samphire) to mains such as the fabled Chilterns muntjac with morels, asparagus and carrot. An assured sense of artistry means that dishes always look extraordinary, but the symp...

There is a soothing sense of isolation to this white-fronted former pub in an Oxfordshire village near Henley, but that has not stopped scores of readers from nominating it as a local favourite. The sense of good cheer that irradiates the place is a tribute to Liam and Ryan Simpson-Trotman's skills in the arts of hospitality, and its understated modern spaces provide a chic backdrop to some stunning cooking.

Following a stint working front of house, Ryan is back in the kitchen, marshalling thoroughbred produce from the length and breadth of the British Isles, while making good use of pickings from Orwells' own garden and local hedgerows. The cooking demonstrates nerveless confidence in a range of techniques, from a starter of flame-grilled lobster teamed with girolles, apricots, verjus and sea fennel (aka rock samphire) to mains such as the fabled Chilterns muntjac with morels, asparagus and carrot. An assured sense of artistry means that dishes always look extraordinary, but the symphonic array of flavours they offer up seals the deal.

Another first course sees crisped veal sweetbreads with Ibérico lardo and salsify, given the gentlest hint of east Asian exoticism with spring onion and sesame dressing, while a vegetarian main looks to the Caribbean for Bajan-spiced hispi with romesco and hen of the woods. You might also find a simple offering of day-boat fish – perhaps Cornish turbot with seashore herbs and Jersey Royals.

The inventive streak continues into desserts that bridge the divide between the familiar and the not-so-familiar – crème brûlée spiced with cardamom and accompanied by rhubarb, pistachios and ginger. Eight-course tasting menus offer a virtuosic display of the kitchen's abilities, in notations that give nothing away. Orkney scallops? Yorkshire rhubarb? Wait and see. There are Sunday roasts too. A very distinguished wine list means that the wide-open Oxfordshire sky is the limit on bottle prices, but there are plenty of options by the glass, as well as an engaging range of cocktails, bottled beers and speciality gins to go at.

Read full reviewSee less

S Burton

24 November 2024

Eating at Orwell's took some planning.... it's off the public transport beaten track and we love to have matched wines. I started with Cornish crab crumpet served with mango chutney, lime pickle and curry. I loved it, the flavours were a match made in heaven. My husband had veal sweetbreads, also delicious. For my main I had the beef with foie gras, delicious. My husband had the Red legged partridge from the game menu, which was a real treat. We had sides of a very smooth and creamy mash, and a ...
Eating at Orwell's took some planning.... it's off the public transport beaten track and we love to have matched wines. I started with Cornish crab crumpet served with mango chutney, lime pickle and curry. I loved it, the flavours were a match made in heaven. My husband had veal sweetbreads, also delicious. For my main I had the beef with foie gras, delicious. My husband had the Red legged partridge from the game menu, which was a real treat. We had sides of a very smooth and creamy mash, and a huge portion of green beans! The desserts were sublime...it took us ages to choose. Ryan came to chat, lovely man...fantastic chef. He also chose wines to match the food. Thanks Ryan. We really enjoyed the whole experience. Excellent and very professional service. The restaurant is very tastefully decorated. We hope to be back once we've saved up! Highly recommended.
See MoreSee less

A Wakeling

18 May 2024

Orwell’s has an amazing atmosphere and a beautiful interior and garden. As soon as you enter, the lovely experience begins. Liam and Ryan are passionate about their delicious food and love to chat about ideas and produce. It’s actually quite perfect.

VENUE DETAILS

Shiplake Row
Binfield Heath
Oxfordshire
RG9 4DPGB

0118 940 3673

View opening times

Make a reservation

OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required

More like this

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    Latest articles