Maison Bleue

There’s a serenity about Maison Bleue, a kind of timeless elegance and comfort that elevates 'lunch' to 'luuuunch'. It is a Bury St Edmunds fixture, attracting the most loyal of guests (some from quite a distance) for whom the combination of graceful service delivered by exceptional people and a menu of classical French cookery is everything a restaurant should be. Occasional flirts with spice add layers of interest to some dishes, witness caramelised cauliflower with a gentle tandoori seasoning or lemongrass, ginger and soy awakening the mild flavour of Devon crab – the latter a beautifully fresh starter which finds the crustacean tucked up with Granny Smith apple under glimmering avruga caviar. Top-notch ingredients take their place on the ‘gourmet’ menu, where you might find organic Shimpling Park lamb (the roasted saddle and slow-cooked shoulder served with sweet potato, kohlrabi and a lamb reduction) or firm, pearly-white Gigha halibut on a little heap of cumin-warmed white cabbage, puréed cauliflower and pieces of smoked eel. A crème brûlée is everything you could ever wish it to be – silken, rich, caramelly – but how welcome is that perky, balancing raspberry and tarragon sorbet. The exceptional wine list is one in which to lose yourself. It excites, tempts and delivers with a (naturally) French-leaning selection, while expert advice comes with the domaine. A rounded but fresh Coudoulet Blanc from the legendary southern Rhône winery, Château de Beaucastel, pairs a treat with a classically sauced chicken ballotine, and is equally satisfying alongside the earthy, autumnal savouriness of stone bass with an artichoke cream sauce, chanterelles and salsify.