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Kanishka

London, Mayfair - Indian - Restaurant - £££

Atul Kochhar's elegant Mayfair outpost

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

‘So consistent and so good,’ is one verdict on this relaxed Mayfair offering helmed by established Indian restaurateur Atul Kochhar. The decor transports diners with its cool jazz soundtrack and elegantly themed interiors inspired by the Sikkimese landscapes, while the cooking delves into the lesser-known cuisine of the Subcontinent’s north-east provinces, combining traditional techniques with modern flair. For starters, regulars rate the chidiya samosa ki chaat (a vegetable mini samosa with smoked yellow-pea curry and chutneys), and it’s also worth seeking out the tandoori monkfish with coconut creamed kale – although the chef’s signature chicken tikka pie (dating from 2006) is the all-round bestseller. Main dishes highlight the Kochhar’s commitment to provenance and British regional produce – as in batak salan (slow-cooked gadwall duck breast with apricot, confit leg samosa, peanut and coconut sauce) or a ‘coastal’ sea...

‘So consistent and so good,’ is one verdict on this relaxed Mayfair offering helmed by established Indian restaurateur Atul Kochhar. The decor transports diners with its cool jazz soundtrack and elegantly themed interiors inspired by the Sikkimese landscapes, while the cooking delves into the lesser-known cuisine of the Subcontinent’s north-east provinces, combining traditional techniques with modern flair.

For starters, regulars rate the chidiya samosa ki chaat (a vegetable mini samosa with smoked yellow-pea curry and chutneys), and it’s also worth seeking out the tandoori monkfish with coconut creamed kale – although the chef’s signature chicken tikka pie (dating from 2006) is the all-round bestseller. Main dishes highlight the Kochhar’s commitment to provenance and British regional produce – as in batak salan (slow-cooked gadwall duck breast with apricot, confit leg samosa, peanut and coconut sauce) or a ‘coastal’ seafood bisque involving red snapper, scallops, tiger prawns and mussels in a spiced broth with caviar. Vegetarian dishes also figure prominently, from jackfruit kofta in coconut korma to fig-filled paneer tikka with baby spinach and rich tomato gravy.

If a sweet finale is required, try the pistachio kulfi with dark chocolate mousse and rose foam. Service is generally attentive, and knowledgeable staff are ‘keen to make recommendations tailored to individual tastes’. There’s a brunch offer at the weekend, while Monday brings a special three-course menu with a carafe of house wine included. The bar is a good call in its own right, and the extensive drinks list spans everything from exotic cocktails to a carefully curated list of spice-friendly global wines. 

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VENUE DETAILS

17-19 Maddox Street
Mayfair
W1S 2QHGB

020 3667 9990

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Credit card required

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