Dorian

*Chef Max Coen is no longer heading up the kitchen.*

In 2022, Chris D’Sylva, a supplier to a number of respected restaurants in the capital, assembled an elite team from The Wolseley, Noble Rot and Core by Clare Smyth to create one of London's more distinctive (and talked-about) eateries. With chef Max Coen (ex-Ikoyi et al) at the helm, Dorian opened as a modern-day British bistro with attitude, proclaiming itself to be ‘a neighbourhood joint for those that suck the marrow out of life’. The atmosphere is cool and lively, the style unassuming – think exposed ventilation ducts, an open-plan kitchen with counter seating, wine cabinets, black-and-white tiled flooring, British 'racing green' banquettes, wooden chairs and close-packed, linen-clothed tables. Every dish on the menu sounds instantly appealing, which can make choosing tricky. We kicked off with moreish, sweet white crabmeat set on a crisp pan-fried potato rösti, ahead of a 'squidgy' veal sweetbread paired with radicchio and topped with a purée of grilled onion – both excellent in their own right. However, the undoubted star turn was a tranche of sea bass served with grilled corn, razor clams and a saffron fish sauce – a technically brilliant dish, and highly pleasurable too. To conclude. a 'devilfish’ choux bun with a crown of nuts oozing with chocolate and cream showed that there is a sense of quiet confidence and swagger to the entire operation – helped along by a slick team. Unpicking the wine list throws up exciting choices from France and Italy, including stellar labels and older vintages. There are some affordable bottles and by-the-glass selections (from £9) but the majority are over three figures.