A. Wong
Victoria, London
‘What makes a fine-dining meal special? Brilliant dishes with many surprises; superb materials; exceptional skill; great service; a memorable and unique experience; theatre. And A. Wong has all of these qualities.' So writes an avid supporter who has followed Andrew Wong’s career closely since he became chef/patron of his parents' modest eatery near Victoria station and, inspired by an extensive period travelling around China, turned it into a restaurant with an international reputation. The terrace at the front has been refurbished and is now fully covered (and heated), extending the dining space – since ‘more diners are keen on ticking A. Wong off their bucket list’. Inside, the ground-floor dining room has dark wood floors, dark grey seating and white linen-clad tables, while jade-green counter seating opposite the open-to-view kitchen is a prime spot to watch the chefs in action – lunchtime dim sum is a big draw. It is all very relaxed and informal. In the evening, the kitchen offers a choice of three different tasting menus reflecting the chef's personal interpretation of regional Chinese cookery. Staff, led by the ‘effervescent’ Nathalie Wong, take time to explain the dishes and answer questions. The ‘menu of five movements’ based on specialities from the Ching dynasty has yielded many stellar dishes: a crab claw with tomato and dash of wasabi on a scallop ceviche and covered with deep-fried vermicelli (deemed ‘a masterpiece'); a trio of flawless dumplings including a crystal-clear shrimp dumpling with trout roe, lifted by sweet chilli sauce and rice-vinegar foam; a small chunk of turbot fired by chilli butter, pickled cockles and daikon. It can take time to contemplate and savour the dishes as there are so many original and exhilarating taste sensations. Peking duck, for example, wrapped in a pancake and served in a basket smoked over cherry wood, is partnered by a slice of seared foie gras and topped with black truffles on one side and caviar on the other, while extraordinarily rich Dongpo suckling piglet is enhanced by drops of aged balsamic. Desserts, so often the bystanders in Chinese cuisine, are also given new impetus – consider a picture-perfect creation of dried cherries with osmanthus jelly, buttermilk and dehydrated raspberries finished with a dark chocolate ice cream. A deep-dive into the drinks menu reveals ‘Forbidden’ cocktails and an expertly curated Eurocentric wine list (from £40) with a dozen by the glass.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Counter seating, No background music, Family friendly, Credit card required
70 Wilton Road, Victoria SW1V 1DE
020 7828 8931
