It’s been affirming to experience the sheer exuberance of the British restaurant scene once again, but post pandemic, we’ve seen a lot of change. At the very top, the grand old dining rooms are being challenged. We feel many are coasting on their long-held reputation of being the best in the country and there’s a very strong sense of the generational passing of the baton. Younger chefs may use the fine dining term, but they interpret it in a different way, effectively demolishing the traditional image of stiff and formal service, richly worked cuisine and a generally posh atmosphere. It makes the current dining scene more varied, more accessible, and certainly more exciting.
Nowadays, a meal outside the home is more than just a plate of food – it is a social event. Meals are often memorable for the occasion, the conversation, the hospitality of the restaurant staff, and the atmosphere in the establishment itself.
Yet the problem with any effort to boil down Britain’s culinary scene to just 20 places across the country is that there are now so many. The 20 we will list next week are the standouts from our growing group of ‘Exceptional’ restaurants in the Guide; places currently hitting the heights of creativity, atmosphere, warmth and deliciousness in a way that made a lasting impression with inspectors. They form a dynamic group, some of whom are moving rapidly towards ‘World Class’ status.
What makes a restaurant ‘World Class’? We've discovered just a handful of restaurants operating at this level. They are run by extraordinary chef-proprietors who are redefining the profession, pushing the boundaries of what eating in a restaurant is all about. It’s the stuff of bucket lists, the vision and talent drawing not just national but international recognition – especially from chefs worldwide. We are lucky to have them.
To those Weekly readers who have been with us from the start, thank you. And those of you who have signed up recently, welcome aboard and strap in for what promises to be an exciting week.
- Elizabeth Carter