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West African restaurant Chishuru could move to the West End next year
Brixton’s increasingly popular West African restaurant Chishuru is on the move.
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Brixton’s increasingly popular West African restaurant Chishuru is on the move.
Nathan Outlaw opened his guest house in Port Isaac, Cornwall, in the summer. The chef, whose exceptional flagship restaurant appears in our Top 20 list, tells Josh Barrie about expanding his business, cooking breakfast, and getting to know his guests.
Country house hotels have been quietly shaking off their dusty image for years. Then the no-fly period of the pandemic struck and suddenly opinion-shapers were checking into places with glorious gardens, sumptuous interiors and kitchens whose food thrilled. Voluminous floral chintz in dusty dining rooms, prissy formality and palate-deadening food? There’s no space for that in these competitive times. Heritage-respecting style, easy informality laced with luxury, and inspired cooking by talented chefs using kitchen garden ingredients? Yes please.
West Africa is a region made up of many countries, and its foods have made a profound impact on cuisines around the world. From Brazil to the Caribbean, Mexico to the United States, you can trace culinary roots back to West Africa. Dishes such as Jamaican saltfish fritters are the culinary descendants of akara, the black-eyed bean fritter eaten in countries such as Ghana, Nigeria, and The Gambia. New Orleanian beignets are an evolution of a form of fried dough known as bofrot in Ghana or puff puff in Nigeria. You can see it in the use of red palm oil in dishes like moqueca (seafood stew) in Brazil, jambalaya in Louisiana.
Our inspector loved every minute of their visit to St Eia. You’re likely already aware of its charms as an outstanding wine shop and coffee shop serving up a tempting all-day snack menu. But here’s our guide to the other top spots to explore around West Cornwall.