Lewtrenchard Manor
Lewdown, Devon
*Head chef David Brown has moved on. Watch for more details and a new review coming soon.*
Steeped in history, this striking, family-run Jacobean manor house has a surprisingly light and relaxed atmosphere. Tables are dotted throughout a couple of dining rooms, but no matter where you sit, you’ll be enveloped in an atmospheric environment defined by dark wooden panelling, stucco ceilings, decorative oil paintings and antiques. There’s nothing dated about the cooking, however. Head chef David Brown, who joined Lewtrenchard in 2021, delivers contemporary dishes based on top-drawer produce from the manor's kitchen garden, which are given exemplary treatment on a daily changing carte and tasting menu. Bang up to date with the current trend for miniature baked potatoes, one starter elevates the humble spud with upright samphire spears – reminiscent of a four-poster bed topped with a generous pillow of caviar, edible flowers and an oyster-leaf throw. It's the perfect prelude to two pieces of delicately poached lobster and a bisque that’s everything you could hope for – vividly orange, smooth, creamy, and delectable. A salad of tomatoes is startlingly fresh with burrata placed in the flesh of a poached tomato, while baby tomatoes, cubes of watermelon, balsamic pearls and thinly sliced, toasted sourdough croûtons add texture and layers of flavour. To follow, there might be a vegetarian take on beef Wellington: a plump, meaty mushroom, coated in mushroom duxelles and buttery puff pastry, sits on diced courgette in a pool of soy-enhanced jus alongside some crispy ratte potatoes. Desserts pack a punch (without being too rich) and demonstrate top pastry skills. A modern interpretation of baked Alaska sees mango ice cream, topped with scorched meringue, paired with sea buckthorn (an intense ingredient that requires the lightest of touches) and adorned with shards of crunchy meringue. A diverse, worldwide wine list covers all tastes and budgets.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, No background music, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Credit card required
Lewdown, Lewdown, Devon EX20 4PN
01566 783222
