Kindle
Cardiff, Glamorgan
* Permanently closed from 7 January 2024.*
The former warden’s cottage in Cardiff's Sophia Gardens is now a fire-driven, eco-conscious restaurant that oozes storybook charm. All the seating is outside under pergolas, and it’s surprisingly cosy – the gravelled spaces bordered by a kitchen garden and bushes that block out the bustle of the city. Tom Powell, previously head chef at the Walnut Tree in Llanddewi Skirrid, has created a magnificent small-plates menu that juggles global influences with confidence and flair: cheese and onion croquettes set the ball rolling with a perfect mix of crunch and fluffy, cheesy filling, while wood-fired vegetable courses such as plump hispi cabbage with jalapeño relish and crumbled peanuts, or caramelised chicory with coconut, honey and a granola-style topping, deliver the perfect mix of charred, juicy freshness. Meat options are equally confident: don’t miss the melt-in-the-mouth hanger steak with perfect dauphinoise potato and spiky sauce au poivre. Dishes flow with the seasons. Early summer might bring a bright, lively fattoush made with gorgeous heritage tomatoes, Jersey Royals with fresh herbs, thinly sliced onions and soured cream, or simple but perfect buttery asparagus with a jewel-like smoked egg. Desserts play to the gallery, with a focus on popular treats such as a rich chocolate tart, banoffee cannoli or crêpes with a crema catalana filling. A short but interesting European wine list includes a fair selection by the glass.
Dining Information:
Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required
Sophia Gardens, Pontcanna, Cardiff, Glamorgan CF11 9SZ
029 2280 1448
