Driftwood
Portscatho, Cornwall
Set within seven acres of green and luscious grounds with views stretching far and wide across the Roseland Peninsula, Paul and Fiona Robinson’s Driftwood is a genuine coastal retreat for nature-lovers and ramblers – and foodies too. Over the years, and through several changes of chef, this light and airy boutique hotel has maintained a reputation for great cooking and, as we discovered, that reputation continues with the appointment (in early 2022) of Aaron McNamara, formerly of South Lodge, Northcote and The Samling. Natural light pours into the generously proportioned dining room (set on two levels), with huge windows framing the magnificent shoreline views beyond. While the restaurant might seem a little formal at first sight with its smart, white linen tablecloths and glistening glassware, the addition of pale fabrics, rattan chairs and seaside-inspired curios creates a relaxed ambience. Food-wise, a crisp chickpea panisse topped with a dollop of thick, sharp tartare sauce makes the perfect opener, paving the way for thinly sliced, sweet, buttery Delica pumpkin and milky burrata, topped with crunchy pumpkin seed praline and herby gremolata, all cut through with yuzu kosho (a bitter Japanese condiment). To follow, a loin of Badger Face lamb teamed with creamy white garlic purée with burnt baby gem, pickled radish, onions and jalapeño jus gras, or Newlyn cod set on a pool of tartare sauce strewn with cod’s roe and served with sliced new potatoes, reveal a fondness for sweet and sour flavours. An indulgent, pitch-perfect Valrhona chocolate and apricot Sachertorte with apricot and thyme sorbet and a 'grué de cacao' crisp makes a fine finale. An assorted but largely Old World wine list covers a range of tastes and prices.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Credit card required
Rosevine, Portscatho, Cornwall TR2 5EW
01872 580644
