Wood
Manchester, Greater Manchester
Simon Wood’s expansive big-city venue has seen a few changes since the pandemic. The welcome is as warm as ever, the vibe is ‘wonderfully relaxing’ and the comfy main dining room is largely unchanged, but Wood has tightened things up food-wise by moving over to a series of tasting menus complemented by wine flights. Brilliant, enthusiastic young staff ‘describe each dish in detail’, portions are exactly right, and everything is spot-on for flavour and invention. Seasonality is the watchword, from a koji-cured bavette with wild garlic and charcoal to a pairing of cod, smoked lemon and sea vegetables or hen’s egg with ham and truffled chips (a witty twist on a northern classic). Pre-desserts are bang on-trend and proceedings conclude with a selection of confectionery from ‘the sweetshop’. The full tasting experience isn’t cheap, but budget-conscious Mancunians can take advantage of a ‘keenly priced’ four-course lunch deal on Fridays and Saturdays. Readers have singled out many dishes, from a deeply flavoured take on French onion soup with beef fat and a superb dish of lamb’s sweetbreads with creamy carrot purée and greens to a delightful riff on rhubarb and custard. Matching the food is a smart, cosmopolitan wine list with some appetising selections by the glass and half-carafe. On the restaurant’s mezzanine is Homage – an exclusive, bookable lounge dedicated to artisan cheeses paired with chutneys, wines and beers.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Credit card required
Jack Rosenthal Street, Manchester, Greater Manchester M15 4RA
0161 236 5211
